Perhaps no show on the fall 2017 New York Fashion Week schedule was as eagerly anticipated as Calvin Klein. The collection marked Raf Simons’ debut as chief creative officer, taking the creative helm of the iconic American sportswear house that Calvin Klein himself built. The stakes were high for Simons, who arrived at Calvin Klein shouldering the great expectations of a couturier incoming from no lesser a perch than Christian Dior, and Jil Sander before. Not only was he a European arriving at a thoroughly American house, but he came to a unique position, the first designer to hold creative control over the company’s entire fashion purview — men’s, women’s, jeans and underwear. Simons rose to the occasion, delivering a powerful, diverse collection that fused references of Americana, Western, Simons’ own archive and classic Calvin Klein codes — i.e. Brooke Shields famous silhouette on the tag of new jeans. What’s more, Simons established what is essentially the first American couture house with Calvin Klein By Appointment, a made-to-measure collection that opened for clients in April.