The dual influence of Vetements and Balenciaga under the creative direction of Demna Gvasalia is undeniable. He launched Vetements as part of a design collective in 2014, but the industry really took note after the fall 2015 show held in the basement of Le Depot, a notorious gay sex club in Paris. The Georgian designer’s reworked, ironic versions of generic clothes and uniforms — from trenches to deconstructed Levi’s to DHL uniforms — drew comparisons to Margiela, where Gvsalia worked in 2009, and basically went viral. Editors and retailers weren’t his only admirers. A few months later, Kering Chairman and CEO Francois Henri Pinault hired Gvasalia as artistic director of Balenciaga, where he’s since reinvigorated the house by twisting and elevating elements of the everyday into directional luxury fashion — think the Ikea-like blue tote that everyone clamors for – all while Vetements remains the engine of streetwear’s raw side.